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It is available in vacuum packs from well-stocked Asian supermarkets. Cinnamon and cassia Both cinnamon and cassia are commonly sold in sticks or in powdered form. True cinnamon can be distinguished from cassia by its lighter colour and finer powder. Always buy just the quantity you need as this spice loses its fragrance quickly. Substitute nutmeg or allspice. Cloves With a unique shape that resembles a small nail, the clove is actually the unopened flower bud of an attractive tropical tree—the buds are picked before they flower and sun-dried to a brownish black.

The kitchen was divided into two areas: the “wet-kitchen” where pounding, grinding and slicing of spices and herbs was done each morning in preparation for a meat or fish curry, close to a running tap so that everything could be splashed clean. The other “dry-kitchen” was for cooking—where the old wood and coal stove sat squat across from the sink and wash area, and on it, a huge pot bubbled quietly with a joint of mutton for a curry or filled with chicken bones for stock inside. A vast wok sat on top of the stove almost permanently where a special dry chicken curry would be slowly sautéed, full of potatoes, tomatoes, chilli and plump chicken pieces.

It varies in colour from gold to light brown and has a faint caramel taste. Palm sugar should be shaved, grated or melted in a microwave oven before measuring it. Substitute dark brown sugar or maple syrup. Pandanus leaves The pandanus leaves are narrow, spear-like and pliant, with a firm central vein. Their distinctive and subtle grassy aroma is only released when the leaves are bruised, twisted or ground into a paste. Pandanus leaves are usually sold in a bundle in Asian markets. But they are either sold frozen or in powdered form in other parts of the world.

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